Skycycle: Pedaling through Paradise

Yesterday we discovered a new adventure tour: the Skycycle Jungle Adventure Tour at Hidden Worlds. Hidden Worlds was already one of our favorite tour operators. They offer snorkeling and diving through beautiful underground cenotes. (More about that on a future blog entry.) So when we heard that earlier this year they opened a new tour, the Skycycle Jungle Adventure Tour, we couldn’t wait to check it out.

The Skycycle is a seat which is attached to a steel cable running through the jungle treetops. The seat is moved forward or backwards by pedaling action. It also operates with both hand and foot brakes.

The tour started on one of Hidden Worlds’ infamous “Mayan Limousines,” a brightly painted gas-guzzling, oil burning jalopy with a flatbed truck on which has been welded a steel frame. As it turned out, the other people who had reserved for the tour never showed, so we had the trip to ourselves. We climbed on the back of “Chango,” our truck, got a good grip on the steel bars and held on for dear life as we went bouncing through the jungle Indiana Jones style, scattering birds and iguanas as we went.

Ten minutes later, we were deep in the tropical forest and arrived at what looked like a base camp out of “Survivor.” This was the Skycycle launch platform area. Here we were fitted with harnesses which wrapped around the waist and legs and then strapped to the Skycycle. People sit in the cycle in a reclining position with feet extended out in front to the pedals. It’s a little cramped, but doable. We were told that the cycle is locked onto the steel cable in such a way that it cannot fall, and we could not fall out of the cycle. Cheri was first. Strapped in, she started pedaling, and off she went. Tony followed a few minutes later.

One of the nicest things about this tour is that you can go at your own pace. You can stop and gently sway in the breeze as you look about, or pedal forward as slowly or as quickly as you wish. You can even back up if you want to see something again. Cyclists are required to keep a sizeable distance between each other, so that you really have a feeling of being alone and surrounded by nature.

The incline of the cable is not very steep, and it is a relatively easy effort to pedal the Skycycle. In a few moments we were among the treetops. Below was the jungle, cenotes, caverns and wonderfully bright flowers and plants. All around we could hear the singing of birds and the cries of monkeys. It was amazingly peaceful and beautiful. The landscape beneath and around was constantly changing. Sometimes we traveled through the highest tree branches and other times we were in the open, going over a palm tree meadow. Many of the trees are filled with orchid plants which have not yet bloomed. We are told that when the flowers do open in early autumn it is quite a sight. We saw a large number of brightly colored birds with long blue tails called Mot Mots. They would rest on the cable in front of us, and then fly away when we got too close.

Halfway through the tour, the Skycycle descends to a cenote cavern. Staff members were there to help us out of our cycles, into a lifejacket and on to the guided snorkeling tour of Iglesias (“church”) cenote with Jose. We have done the other cenote snorkel tours with Hidden World, but we had never seen this cave. We were told that even though it was an older cenote than the ones normally used for tours, it has only been open to the public a few months. It was well lit with many stalactites. The water was crystal clear and full of small, translucent fish. It was a refreshing break from the heat and humidity of the jungle. We decided the cenote was called the Church due to the fact that the cold water made us cry out “OHMIGOD!” when we first jumped in. Don’t worry, you get used to it in no time. Our time in the water lasted about 45 minutes. Then it was back onto the Skycycle.

After leaving the Iglesias cavern, we pedaled through three more cenote caverns. For these cenotes, you don’t get out and swim, you pedal above them as you move through the cavern. Then it was back into the treetops. A short while later, the route returned us to the Skycycle landing where Alan, our Mayan Limousine driver, was waiting to take us back to civilization. The entire cycle route is only one kilometer, in case you’re wondering how difficult it might be.

The tour lasts approximately 2-1/2 hours. The cost is $75.00 per person. Wear tennis shoes or sandals and a swimsuit under your clothing. Bring sunscreen, bug spray and drinking water. You can put these items in a small bag or backpack which will be hooked to your chair. And bring a camera if you like to take photos, as there are many great shots to be had. There is no size or age limit (children too small to pedal are allowed to ride on a parent’s lap, but children as young as 6 have ridden by themselves, we were told). There are lockers available at the front desk for the rest of your belongings.

Hidden Worlds is on Highway 307 about 8 km south of Akumal, easily accessible by car, bus or colectivo. Skycycle tours start at 10am, 12pm and 2pm. For more information, check out their website, www.hiddenworlds.com. Or, if you’re staying at the Luna Blue Hotel & Garden in Playa del Carmen, we can set it up for you once you arrive.

We thought this was a great tour. The Skycycle allowed us to truly experience the tropical jungle without the necessity of roads or man-made enhancements. We think it’s a real alternative to the mass-produced so-called adventure tours that are so popular in the Mayan Riviera.

Tony and Cheri give it two big thumbs up and say “check it out!!”

Bloody Chicas Update!

One of the great things about moving to another country is the chance to make friends with people of another place and another culture. We have been particularly blessed by meeting some really wonderful people since moving to Playa del Carmen. Two of those people are sisters Mayte and Alex. Not only are they some of the sweetest people around, but they are some of the most hardest working, which is suprising when you know that Mayte is 23 and Alex is only 19.

For the last couple of years, the girls have been operating their restaurant known as Bloody Chicas. The name came from Mayte’s boyfriend (now husband) Keith, who is from the UK. He jokingly would refer to the sisters as “those bloody chicas,” and the name stuck. Their restaurant was a success only through their own incredible hard work. Not only did they cook the great meals, but they served them, cleaned up afterwards, washed the dishes, swept the floor and did everything else. Then, in the evenings, they tended bar at Captain Dave’s, which was owned by Keith. This in addition to both of them going to school! Despite this incredible schedule, they never lost their friendly smiles and their willingness to help other people. When the local Bomberos (firefighters) needed to raise money for new supplies, the girls were right there.

Unfortunately, this has been a very difficult year for the chicas. Their restaurant was burglarized no less than four times. Finally, out of frustration, the girls took to sleeping in the restaurant with baseball bats. When the thief returned a fifth time, he ended up with a broken leg and a trip to jail. However, they never recovered their stolen goods. Then things got worse. Keith’s bar was forced to close when the landlord, Don Mario’s restaurant, kicked them out with no notice. That left Keith and the girls without a source of income except the restaurant.

Now to our great sadness, the restaurant is closed, as earlier this week, the two sisters were broadsided by another vehicle while driving their car to school in the morning. They had to be cut from their car. Mayte broke her ankle and broke her pelvis in two places. Alex suffered a ruptured spleen which had to be surgically removed. The good news is that both girls will survive. The bad news is that their recovery period will be long, difficult and expensive, since they will be unable to work. Like many locals in Mexico, they have no insurance, and the possibility of suing the other driver is remote at best, and probably nonexistent. The law works different down here.

Locals in Playa del Carmen, both Mexican and ex-patriates, who know and love the Chicas are trying to raise money to help them. We are joining in that effort and asking our friends and readers to contribute whatever they can for the girls. To make a donation, go to our website as if you were making a reservation. Instead of entering information about a hotel stay, simply note in the comments field that the amount you indicate is a donation for Alex and Mayte. To do so, click Help the Chicas. Or, if you prefer to pay with paypal, go to www.paypal.com, click on the “Send Money” tab, and enter the email account “helpthechicas@lunabluehotel.com.” Or, if you’re going to be in Playa del Carmen, stop by the Luna Blue Hotel & Garden and drop off a donation. No amount is too small! So far we’ve raised just over $4,000 US from online donations & cash donations at the hotel. We are paying all credit card and paypal fees, so 100% of the money donated is going to the girls. Please keep it up!!

Back in the US, it might seem strange to make a public plea to help someone with medical bills or because they are out of work. There are just so many resources that we don’t often give it a second thought. People, we think, will be taken care of. That’s not always true in Mexico. In Mexico the old fashioned view of community still holds: you turn to your family and friends when you need help. Alex and Mayte are our friends, and in a sense, they are the friends of everyone who comes to Playa del Carmen, whether you’ve ever eaten at their restaurant or not. They are the kind of people who have made Playa a city of the world that welcomes so many visitors and vacationers. Helping them is a way that all of us can say thanks, to them and to Playa del Carmen.

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UPDATE!!!! June 25, 2007: Bloody Chicas restaurant has reopened. Much to everyone’s happiness, Mayte and Alex, after a couple of months of recuperation, have recovered nicely from their accident. Thanks to everyone who helped support them during this difficult time. And although the girls are moving a little slowly, and tire easily, they are back in the kitchen at Bloody Chicas restaurant on Calle 4 between 25th and 30th Avenues (about 4-1/2 blocks from Fifth Avenue). Make sure to stop by for some of the best home cooked local food you’ll find in Playa del Carmen. This place is a hidden gem, and you’ll find the girls to be an absolute delight. Tip big.

Eating in Playa del Carmen…the Good, the Bad and the Ugly

Updated June 21, 2009

As Playa Del Carmen has grown from tranquil village to world famous resort town, so has the number, diversity and quality of its restaurants grown. Playa is now a city of the world as far as cuisine is concerned. An international array of foods can be found at prices that range from unbelievably cheap to outrageously expensive, and all prices in between. At the Luna Blue Hotel & Garden, our guests constantly ask us for recommendations for places to eat. Now we have put those recommendations down in this list. The eateries listed here are some of the more established and well known of Playa’s restaurants. We have eaten at every one of them, and some of them have become our favorite regular hangouts. No restaurant has paid for the privilege of being listed here. They’re here because we like them or, in some cases, because we don’t like them. This is by no means a complete list of all of the places to eat in Playa Del Carmen. It is just a starting point from which you can begin to explore what has become one of Mexico’s top culinary destinations.

We will continually update this page. You’ll always be able to find it by clicking on the “Dining in Playa” category to the right.

Tony & Cheri

Mexican:

This is not the Tex-Mex style food of your favorite Mexican restaurant back home. You will find less enchiladas and burritos and more steaks, chicken and seafood. Cheese and chilis are a part of most dishes. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Your waiter will most likely speak English and will be glad to help you out.

Kalaka. On Calle 4 between 15th and 20th Avenues. Although Kalaka calls itself Mexican/Italian food, there’s a little bit of everything on this menu, and it’s one of our favorite spots in Playa. Small and intimate (only 8 tables), it has some of the freshest and most delicious food we’ve had in Playa, for very reasonable prices. Located two and a half blocks off of Fifth Avenue, it’s worth the stroll. Everything we’ve ever had here is delicious, and it’s beautifully presented as well. Don’t miss this gem! (Kalaka is closed on Tuesdays.)

La Parilla. On 5th Ave. at Calle 10. Mexican food as most Americans envision it including entertaining waiters and serenades by Mariachi bands throughout the evening. Part of a chain, this is one of Playa’s most popular (and touristy) places. The food isn’t spectacular, but it is generally good and the experience is almost always fun. A photographer often stops by a table and puts large sombreros on everyone’s head before snapping a picture. Play along, as the shots usually turn out really good. We actually own two of these photos.

Yaxche (Mayan). On Calle 8 between 5th and 10th Ave. Mayan, not Mexican food. For example, dishes such as tamale type meals are cooked in banana leaves instead of corn husks. High quality food and service. Finish with a flaming Mayan coffee prepared tableside. This is one of the few places that serves just Mayan food.

El Fogón. Three locations: 30th Ave. near Calle 4, 30th Ave. near Calle 32 and Constituyentes near 30th Ave. Not your traditional tourist spot, this is where hungry locals eat. Many people who work in the hotels of the resort zone end up there late at night for their after hours meal. This is a grill featuring steaks, sausage pork chops, and chicken (no salad, no seafood). They are famous for their tacos el pastor. Bring a big appetite. Cheap and good. We eat at the one on 30th Avenue and Calle 32 quite frequently. Their frijoles charros are awesome, and you can order just a cup of them by asking for frijoles charros medio (otherwise you get a big bowl, enough for a meal!). Tony usually orders the arrachera norteña (strips of arrachera steak covered with grilled chorizo which is covered with melted cheese). This comes with a small cup of the frijoles charros, a little bit of really awesome guacamole (the best in Playa, we think), poblano chiles covered in melted cheese, a baked potato and tortillas. It’s about 8 bucks. Cheri usually has the arrachera especial which comes with all the same stuff, but instead of the cheese and chorizo on top of the steak, it’s just the steak. About half of it usually comes home afterwards & makes great tacos and/or quesadillas the next day. They have fruit drinks, soft drinks and beer.

Palapa Hemingway . On 5th Ave. near Calle Corazon. One of Playa’s oldest restaurants, Hemingway serves Mexican dishes with a
Caribbean twist (try the shrimps in coconut sauce). Large portions and good drinks. Sit outside on 5th Ave. and watch the world stroll by.

El Asadero. Avenida 25 between Calle 2 and 4. We tried this one recently based on the glowing recommendation of a friend. We had the arrachera. It was pretty good, but HC de Monterrey has us spoiled for arrachera, and this wasn’t as good as theirs. And the beans that came with the meal couldn’t hold a candle to the beans at El Fogón. BUT… their hand made corn tortillas are out of this world. Next time we’re in the neighborhood we’ll stop by and get some para llevar (to go). Overall it was pretty good, but the competition is stiff out there.

Seafood:

La Pesca. Avenida 30 near Constituyentes. Under the big palapa. Newly opened by Antonio, a 10 year employee of Blue Lobster, the food is out of this world and the prices are great. Try the cazuela de camarones (shrimp casserole). It’s actually a soup with a tomato cream base, chilis and handfuls of giant shrimp. Just before serving they throw in lots of cheese and bake it in the oven until it’s boiling hot. It comes in two sizes: medium (which is huge) and regular (which is huger). Cheri likes the fish fillet al ajillo. Beware, however: if you order the Caesar Salad with Shrimp, it comes with those little tiny shrimp. If you tell them you want it with big shrimp, it makes it a much better salad, for just a little more dinero. La Pesca is located on bustling 30th Avenue across from Mega and in front of a colectivo stop, which makes for interesting people watching. Without question, this is the best seafood in Playa del Carmen. Open 7 days a week from 11:30 am until 10:00 pm (new expanded hours). If you are in restaurant and at a table by 10:00 pm, Antonio and the staff will take care of you, no matter how late they have to stay.

Oasis. Calle 12 between 5th and 10th Ave. Generally regarded by many locals as the best shrimp tacos in town. It has a large seafood menu, a full bar, and it’s close to Fifth Avenue.

Pizza:

Karen’s. Fifth Avenue between 2nd and 4th. Karen’s has been here a long time and they are always having fun. Good old American style pizza with waiter shenanigans and occasionally live music.

Domino’s. Order from your hotel’s front desk. Yep, just like home (you decide if that is good or bad). Their Mexican pizza is spicy and good.

Rolandi’s restaurant in the new Paseo del Carmen area of Playa Del Carmen (at the southern end of Fifth Avenue) has pizza prepared in brick ovens. It’s a little doughy for our taste, but they serve puffed up dough brushed with hot garlic butter before your meal.

Pizza Pazza. Has four locations in Playa: the one on Calle 12 between 5th and 10th Avenues, one on 10th Avenue between Calles 8 and 10, one on 5th Avenue between Calles 14 and 16 and another one in Avenida Juarez. Pizza by the slice, 16 pesos on an average for a good size slice.

Asian

Babes Noodles and Bar. On 5th Avenue near Calle 28, about a block and a half from the Luna Blue Hotel & Garden. There’s another location on Calle 10 between 5th and 10th Avenue, but the service isn’t as good or friendly, and it tends to be more crowded. One of the most popular restaurants in Playa. Features Thai food with a Swedish influence., i.e. Red Curry Shrimp poured over mashed potatoes! Try the Swedish Meatballs and the gigantic blueberry margaritas for a real treat. If you ask either of the waiters (Jose or Maximo) for a Luna Blue sized margarita, you’ll get something about twice the normal size. Open 7 days a week.

Italian:

Kalaka. On Calle 4 between 15th and 20th Avenues. See above, under Mexican, as Kalaka bills itself as both. Really, really, really good food.
Antica Osteria del Mar. Fifth Avenue, between Calles 28 and 30. In our opinion, the best pasta in Playa del Carmen. Perfectly cooked with light but extremely flavorful sauces, good prices and a nice atmosphere.

La Pummarola. Calle Flamingo (between Calle 38 & 40) and Calle Petrel (between 5th Avenue & the sea). We used to love this restaurant until several weeks ago. After waiting for almost an hour and watching everyone around us (who came after us) be served, we said that if our pasta wasn’t ready, we’d just pay for our salads and leave. We were treated very rude, including being called a horrible name by someone we believe may have had an ownership interest, and we will not patronize this place again. There is no excuse for treating people like we were treated under any circumstances.

Café Mediterranea. In a cool little alley/art gallery off Fifth Avenue, between Calles 6 and 8.

Da Bruno on 5th Avenue at Calle 12 for upscale Italian.

Il Pescatore Da Ileana on 10th Avenue at Calle 24 (not to be confused with the other Il Pescatore in the Grand Porto Real). Basic pasta, mediocre food, and rude and slow service and treatment by the owners.

Don Mario’s on 10th Avenue at Calle 8. Basic uninspired, overpriced pasta menu with uninterested service. In addition, we don’t like this place because the owners broke their lease with Captain Dave’s La Fortuna bar, forcing our favorite blues bar out of business because the owner of Don Mario’s didn’t like the music. Do not patronize this place.

Steak:

The best steak houses in Playa offer steaks from the U.S., Argentina, and Mexico. Try them all and compare!

Chicago Don Jose. On Calle 6 between 5th and 10th Ave. American owned and operated, they offer thick corn fed beef and all the traditional sides. Pricey but very, very good.

HC de Monterrey/Super Carne.On Constituyentes between 25th and 30th Avenues, across from Mega. (A second location is outside of the tourist zone on CTM Street.) If you are going to have one meal in Playa this is the place. It is more popular with locals than tourists, but that is changing rapidly. Not only is it a butcher shop where most of Playa’s restaurants buy their meat, but it is also a restaurant. Open from 12:00 noon to midnight, HC de Monterrey offers the best steak meal you will ever have. Have the Arrachera Nacional Paquete: a huge steak, baked potato or onion, half of an avocado, butter, sour cream, tortillas, really tasty salsa/steak marinade and a beverage. All for $99 pesos. For the perfect meal, go next door to El Fogon and get an order of frijoles charros, para llevar (to go) and bring it back to eat with your steak. Look for the line of locals waiting for a table. You won’t be disappointed.

El Asador de Manolo. Avenida 10 between Calle 24 and 26. Argentinian owned and operated. Manolo, previous owner of the best steak house in Playa, has a very popular spot among the locals with Angus steak and really good chimichurri sauce.

Buenos Aires . Calle 6 between 5th and 10th Avenues. This used to be one of our favorite steak houses, but now we no longer recommend it. They changed locations and apparently changed owners. The prices increased dramatically, the quality and quantity of the food dropped and the service, which was some of the finest in town, is now nonexistent. The even pulled the old “there is no tip, but there is a 10% kitchen service charge.” For those of you who don’t know, there is no kitchen or service charge on any meal in Playa. Any restaurant that attaches it to your bill is adding in the tip. Just be aware.

Cuban:

Bodeguita del Medio. In the Paseo del Carmen shopping area at the southernmost end of 5th Ave. Owned by the same folks who own its namesake restaurant in Havana, Cuba (a favorite of Hemingway), this place is always crowded and noisy in a good way. Traditional spicy Cuban food accompanied by live Cuban bands and some of the hottest salsa dancing around.

Beach Eats:

Sometimes you are on the beach and having too good a time to leave and find some place to eat. No worries! Many of the beachfront hotels have beach clubs. Here you can find a beach chair, an umbrella, a bar and a restaurant. Most will even bring your order down to your beach chair for you. Other beach clubs are unaffiliated with a hotel but the set up is the same. You don’t have to be staying at the hotel, but be prepared to pay for the chair and the umbrella as well as the food and drinks. The menus vary but most offer hamburgers, tacos, seafood (shrimp is usually on the menu in some form) and quesadillas and nachos. Beach food! If you get hungry, just stroll the beach. Something will catch your eye. Some of the more popular beach spots are Kool (great food and service), the Blue Parrot, El Pirata, Coco Maya, Mamitas, Playa Maya, and Bad Boys (where you can hear live blues on most days between 3 and 5).

Breakfast:

The most important meal of the day Mom always said. Most restaurants feature a breakfast menu. These are mentioned because they stand out as places to start the day.

Cry Baby’s. On 5th Avenue at the corner of Calle 22. A large American breakfast menu with some of the best basic breakfasts in town. Set up like an old fashioned diner, Cry Baby’s serves lunch & dinner too, with focus on burgers & diner food. Good stuff.

La Vagabunda. On 5th Avenue near Calle 26. A large basic breakfast menu featuring all kinds of egg dishes, pancakes, waffles, fruits and cereals served under a huge palapa roof and somewhat inflated prices.

Cueva del Chango. On Calle 38 near 1st Avenue. The Cave of the Monkey. Worth seeing if just for the jungle garden setting. How many restaurants have a restroom with a waterfall for a sink? Eggs, crepes and fruit dishes.

Hot Bakery. At the corner of Calle Corazon and Calle 14. An old standard in Playa. Coffee and a cinnamon roll the size of your head. Service is generally extremely slow, so don’t go if you’re in a hurry.

Cafe Corazón. On 5th Avenue between Calles 28 and 30. A cute little coffee shop with espresso bar, pastries, and various breakfast dishes (eggs, bagels, breakfast sandwiches, etc.). A pleasant place to have your morning cup o’ joe and read the paper. Free wireless internet in case you have a laptop and are dying to surf the net.

Java Joe’s. Calle 8 between Fifth and 10^th Avenues. A Playa del Carmen tradition for many years, Joe’s is where local ex pats hang out in the morning, get a cup of coffee, nibble a pastry, read the paper and trade gossip.

Dessert:

Most places have some dessert menu but most people will love these places to satisfy a sweet tooth. Ah Cacao. On Constituyentes at the corner of 5th Avenue and a second location (near the Luna Blue!) on the corner of 5th Avenue and Calle 30. This place is a chocoholics dream. Rich spicy Mexican chocolate in pastries, ice cream and drinks. Try the Chocolate Maya, the chocolate equivalent of espresso. And the brownies…to die for! And if you need more, you can find both Baskin Robbins and Haagen-Dazs stores on 5th Ave. And for a taste of childhood, Playa now has a Dairy Queen, located a few doors down from La Parilla on 5th Avenue near Calle 10.

Other:

Las Cazuelas, right across the street from the Luna Blue Hotel & Bar on Calle 26 between 5th Avenue and 10th Avenue, has delicious Spanish tapas in the evening. They have Mexican style breakfasts and comida corrida for lunch, as well, but if you’re going to eat here, come for dinner. Owner Miguel is an excellent chef and has a large assortment of tapas of every type. Come & swing at our bar & ask Jorge to go across the street & order you some tapas. Miguel will deliver them to your swing!

Nativo. Two locations, right down the street from each other. One is located on 30th Avenue a couple of doors down from the corner of 30th Ave and Constituyentes; the other is just a few doors down from that, heading north. They offer a wide range of various fruit and energy shakes for good prices. They also have some traditional Mexican foods like enchiladas, quesadillas, etc. All are made with very fresh ingredients and are excellent. The salads are good, too. They give you a LOT of food, so come hungry.

PG’s Sandbox (aka PG’s and Pinche Gringos) . Corner of 1st Avenue and Calle 28. We’re going to give this one more try. We had given this place a terrible, don’t-go-here review because of incredibly bad service and some other things. Friends in Playa told us that we should try it again, that it had changed. We were told that the old staff (which was more interested in hanging out at the bar together than waiting on tables) had been let go and that new people were brought in. The bar generously hosted a couple of benefits for issues dear to our heart: the girls from Bloody Chicas after their car accident and for victims in Mahahual from Hurricane Dean. Convinced that things had turned around, we were persuaded to give them one more try. This time when we went it was a whole new experience. Although the bar was totally crowded, service was quick and good. Cheri had a hamburger; Tony had the sausage burger. Both were tasty, and the fries were great. So, we’re going to try it again in the near future. They have a sports bar menu with buffalo wings, burgers and other “bar” food. They also have several TVs to televise sporting events.

These are just a few of our suggestions. Now get out there and explore one of the world’s great places to eat!

A Mini-Vacation on Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres is often marketed in the tourist industry as Mexico’s Caribbean island, causing visions of lush tropical mountains and deserted beaches right out of “Pirates of the Caribbean.” And the name, “The Isle Of Women,” can create even more fantasy for the unsuspecting traveler. However the reality is that Isla Mujeres is a quaint Mexi-Caribbean town on a flat, largely underdeveloped piece of land not far off the beaches of Cancun. Exotic it is not. However it is peaceful, nice, friendly and relaxing.

When our friends from San Francisco, Jan and Eric, were in town recently they wondered if there might be some part of the Mayan Riviera they hadn’t seen yet. After several trips down here they knew Playa del Carmen, Akumal, and Tulum pretty well. They wanted to see something new. We suggested a few days in Isla Mujeres.

We left early in the day and drove up to Puerto Juarez, the ferry dock to Isla Mujeres located just north of Cancun. When we first started visiting this part of Mexico many years ago the ferries to Isla Mujeres were small little outboard motor affairs taking 12 or 15 people to the island. Now they are large, powerful double decker boats carrying many more people for the 15 minute ride across the straits between Cancun and Isla Mujeres. We parked the van in the secure lot at the front of the ferry building for only $60 pesos. The cost of the ferry was $65 pesos round trip per person—a real bargain.

Once we got to the island, we rented a golf cart so that we could see some of the outlying areas. Scooters are also readily available to rent. There are a number of streets in the little town and a surprising amount of traffic, mostly taxis. If you’re just planning on going to the beach and strolling around in town, you can do it on foot. Golf carts aren’t cheap – $550 pesos for 24 hours – but they are fun. They also move easily through the narrow streets, along the bumpy beachfront roads and even right onto the sand.

There are two main beach areas, both within walking distance from one another. One is the waterfront which faces Cancun and has several boat docks (the western side of the island). During the day party boats from Cancun deposit day trippers to soak up the sun and tequila at the many beach clubs which line the shore. The water is pretty but the swimming area is small and roped in as currents and boat traffic make the deeper water dangerous for swimmers. The other beach area is Playa Norte (North Beach) which faces north towards Holbox Island and the Gulf of Mexico. This area is perfect for swimming as the natural sea bed is very shallow for many yards out into the water. Better still, a sandbar twenty to thirty yards wide sits just off the beach and stretches for much of the length of Playa Norte. You can easily wade out to the sandbar from the beach and literally sit in the blue green Caribbean Sea. The shallowness of the water makes it bathtub warm.

However the beach itself leaves a little to be desired. This is not Playa del Carmen or Tulum with beautiful clean white sand beaches leading down to the sea. Playa Norte in Isla Mujeres is a more natural setting. The beach is narrow, and the shoreline is lined with seaweed which flows in with the tide. In some places it piles up and can create a bit of an odor problem. However in most of the areas by the beach bars, the effect is minimal and a few steps into the water carry you past the vegetation. Swimming is discouraged on the eastern side of the island because of the strong currents.

We went looking for a hotel and found again this is not Playa! Rooms were simple to the point of being sparse: no drinking water provided and no refrigerator…with a cost of over $200 USD!!! We found some rooms a little cheaper, but truthfully everything we saw on the beach was very overpriced when compared to Playa hotels. However we did see some very nice reasonably priced accommodations a block or two off the beach. Next time we will check some of these out and report back. This time we chose the Na- Balam resort. We thought the rooms were extremely overpriced, but the hotel surrounds a beautiful beach style garden with palm trees, rock walkways and well groomed sand. There are also two restaurants (one open in the day, the other at night—also very expensive) and two bars. It was beachfront, but the beach was pretty dirty with seaweed so we would walk a few yards north to cleaner areas to go swimming.

When on the beach we hung out down by Buho’s Beach club and another little beachfront restaurant next door. Buho’s is very nice with traditional swings at the bar. The day/evening we were there we saw a lovely sunset wedding ceremony at the water’s edge. Very romantic. Of course this being the tropics, as soon as the “I do’s” were finished it started to pour. From a picturesque sunset to rain shower in a few minutes. The wedding party handled it with much laughter and ran to join all of us under the palapa bar, carrying the wedding cake with them! In a few moments the rain passed and the wedding continued.

We also got some rain the next day when we were swimming. We sat in the two foot deep blue Caribbean water out on the sandbar and suddenly were drenched by a downpour. It was fun, although the rain was colder than the sea and we kept lying down in the water to warm up.

At night we went out to explore Hidalgo Street. Most of the in-town streets are filled with brightly colored Caribbean style wooden shops selling various souvenirs. However Hidalgo is mostly restaurants. At night the street closes to traffic and becomes a pedestrian mall. We walked along looking at various menus and listening to music (a number of places have live music). Eventually we stopped and tried to reach a consensus on what we wanted to eat. We all agreed Italian sounded good. At that moment the sky opened up with a bright flash of lightening, a roar of thunder and a deluge of a downpour. We looked up and saw an Italian restaurant directly in front of us. It was fate. We ran in and grabbed a table under the palapa awning. It was Angelo’s and it was TERRIFIC! As the rain poured down for the next two hours we sat and had one of those magical tropical evenings.

The food service and ambience at Angelo’s was perfect. The pasta was as good as we have had (and coming from San Francisco where pasta is an art form, that says something). We drank great Argentinean Malbec wine and topped off the meal with cappuccinos and Cuban rum. The cappuccino machine was in a sister restaurant across the street so when anyone ordered a coffee drink, Antonio our waiter would don a plastic garbage bag raincoat, roll up his pant legs and hold a tray over his head as he stepped into the flooded street and dashed over to get our drinks. He received much applause (and tips) for his bravery.

The next day was another beach day and then off to the ferry dock for the ride home. As we had time we stopped at the Miramar restaurant next to the ferry dock and had lunch. Again, a real find. Tables overlook the little marina while the efficient staff serves excellent seafood accompanied by two musicians playing Latin jazz. Very nice! And Miramar’s menu had some of those wonderfully hilarious translations to English that don’t quite make sense. Living here in Mexico, we’re always on the lookout for such things, and this was one of the best. “Snails to the butter,” “Fingers Fish” and “Octupus to the I garlic wet” were some of our favorites. Finally lunch was over and the boat was boarding. In less than an hour and a half, we were back in Playa del Carmen. We will surely return. Isla Mujeres is a nice break from the big city of Cancun and even from the quieter Playa del Carmen. It’s a little slice of laid back island living.

Catamaya Cruisin’

We recently went on the Catamaya catamaran snorkeling cruise.with some good friends. It’s one of our favorite tours in the Playa Del Carmen area.

The Catamaya is a beautiful double-hulled cat which sails out of Puerto Aventuras, about 15 minutes south of Playa del Carmen. The boat holds a maximum of 100 people, but there were much fewer on the day we went. As guests arrive at the boat, their picture is taken by a professional photographer. The photo is available for sale when the boat returns to port. Everyone was warmly greeted by the crew and instructed to remove their shoes. This is a barefoot cruise.

When we sailed out of the harbor into the Caribbean, the waves were a little rough, as they can sometimes be on a windy morning. However, we know from experience when we’re going to be out on the water to take a Bonine or Dramamine about an hour before we go. It worked perfectly, and we had no problem with a little bit of bouncing the cat did over the waves. Unfortunately, a couple of others weren’t so prepared and had some motion sickness.

We hung out with our friends on the boat as we sailed out into calmer waters and headed down the coast. There is an open bar, but the crew wisely advises people not to drink too much until after the snorkel stop. As we sailed along, people spread out all over the deck. There are lounge areas, seating areas and a big open net out front, where you can lie in the sun above the waves running beneath.

After sailing for a bit, we anchored just offshore and snorkel vests, masks, snorkels and fins were distributed. The crew was very attentive, as always, getting people together, dressed and into the water for the snorkeling. There are two snorkel guides—one in front and one in back—as they take people to the nearby coral reef.

As we had been on this tour many times before, we decided to forego the snorkeling and just jumped into the water with our life jackets and floated around. We jokingly called to the captain that we’d like margaritas delivered to us in the water. He disappeared and in a few minutes was back, leaning over the side of the water with a tray of margaritas. Floating in the warm blue water of the Caribbean and sipping a margarita has got to be one of the best ways to spend a lazy day. Occasionally a big wave would roll in, lifting us and dropping us again. There was much hooting, hollering and teasing of anyone who spilled their drink during the ride.

After about 40 minutes, the snorkeling group returned, and everyone got back on the boat. Lunch was then served. Passengers were offered a choice of steak or lobster tail grilled on a barbeque right out on the deck. This was accompanied by a pasta dish, a green salad, guacamole, chips, & salsa. And of course the bar was now open and the drinks flowed. The crew constantly moved among the passengers with pitchers of rum punch, margaritas, water or beer.

After lunch, we began the leisurely sail back to port. Both on the way out and back, the crew trailed fishing lines. On this day they had a couple of strikes and landed a good-sized dorado. Any passenger who wanted could take the pole and help reel in the fish, which several guys did.
For the rest of the trip the water was pretty calm; they played great music on the stereo, and people lounged in the sun and relaxed. We pulled back into Puerto Aventuras at 2:00 pm. We picked up our shoes, collected our belongings and found our driver waiting to take us back home.

We’ve done a lot of tours and sailed on different catamarans in the Mayan Riviera. The Catamaya is our favorite, because the boat is beautiful and clean, the crew is incredibly friendly and attentive, and best of all, they offer a great lunch. Most catamaran tours only give you chips and salsa, so by the end of the trip, you’re starving and over-beveraged—not a good combination.

The cruise starts at 10:00 am and returns at 2:00 pm. The cost of the cruise is $87.00 per person for adults and includes round-trip transportation from local hotels in the Riviera Maya. Also included in the price is all snorkeling equipment, all you can drink, and a barbeque lunch. You can contact the Catamaya through their website at http://www.catamaya.net. Or, if you can’t reach them, you can always email us at the Luna Blue Hotel & Garden and we can book it for you. Tony & Cheri give it two thumbs up.

A Celebration of Sarah

“In the tropics, people come and they go”. – Jimmy Buffet

It’s fashionable to talk about how travel influences people and how living in a different place and culture can change a person for the better. However we often forget that the rewards of travel can run in both directions and that a visitor to a country can change the landscape as well as how the local people feel and act. On a few very special occasions, a traveler can leave a place better than it was. Our friend Sarah is such a person.

Shortly after moving to Playa we met Sarah. She had moved here only a few months before we did. She came down to take a break from years of school, work, and some personal sadness. A short stay in the sun seemed to be just what she needed. She never left. Playa seduced her. But then again, the love affair was mutual.

There are ex-pats who come here to party until the booze, the money or the locals’ patience is used up. Then they drift away. Not Sarah. She became part of Playa. True enough, our girl loves to party! There is probably no bar top in Playa that has not been danced upon by Sarah as she waved a glass of tequila and shouted “Woo-hoo!” to the world. However Sarah has meant much more to Playa than just one more pretty girl dancing the night away. Sarah became part of life down here for many people.

Sarah has the world’s biggest heart. Anytime there was a person in need or a charity function planned, Sarah jumped in to help with all she has. From the Bloody Chicas to the local fire fighters, to collecting school supplies and clothing for local underprivileged children and unwed mothers, to raising money for ex-pats in need of assistance…Sarah has always been there. After she became a member of the newly established church in Paamul she became one of its biggest supporters. When she went to work at the El Papalote grade school she didn’t just teach children English, she threw herself into events and celebrations and became a member of the families whose children went there and the folks who taught there.

Because of that giving spirit, everyone young and old adores “Sarita.” She became the first crush of Angelito, the seven year old son of our maid Elvira. Actually the whole staff at the Luna Blue fell a little bit in love with Sarah for her warmth, her little thoughtful gifts and that wonderful smile.

Then there are the two of us. Sarah has been part of our life here from the beginning. She raided our closets for Halloween costumes, she created spontaneous events at our house (there’s a barbeque at your place tonight…didn’t I tell you?!); she banged up our car (kids!!!) and she scared the hell out of us by getting sick with dengue and kidney infections (like the time she called at midnight with a 104 degree temperature: “Papa T, I don’t feel very good.”). Life with Sarah has never been dull.

We soon discovered she was a talented artist and put her to work. She designed the unique Luna Blue Hotel & Garden logo which graces our webpage signs and t-shirts. She also painted the favorite places signpost hanging in our garden. We weren’t alone in appreciating Sarah’s talents. Her designs have been seen all over Playa and the internet. You can see some of her work on her web page, www.graphicosdesign.com. She’ll continue to be our own personal grapics designer, even though now everything will have to be done long distance.

And she has taken very good care of us. She has been that special kind of friend who listens and never judges. She was always there to help and work no matter what the project. We never asked Sarah to do anything and had her say no. She is that unique person who always comes through and is always willing to give. She held our hands, dried our tears, and told us we could go on even when we thought we couldn’t. She housesat our animals, baked us incredible goodies and dragged us to the beach, the bar or the party when it all got to be too much.

We really don’t know if we would still be here today in Playa, running a successful hotel, if we hadn’t had Sarah as part of our lives.

Now she is leaving us. No longer will we see that little brown skinned girl heading past the hotel early in the morning on her way to the beach, yelling “I’ll stop by on my way back!” No longer will we walk by her house on the way home from work and have her run out on her tiny balcony saying “Come on up. I have…brownies/tequila/good gossip!”

Sarah has fallen in love and is moving back to the States to be with her guy, Adam. We totally approve. We think he is perfect for her and her for him. After all, we introduced them, thinking what a perfect couple they would make. We know they will be very happy together. And of course we will insist they occasionally come back for a visit (on birthdays, Thanksgiving, Christmas, anniversaries, 4th of July, Flag Day…).

Sarah thinks she is leaving Playa on June 11th. She is wrong. She will forever be part of the heart and soul of Playa del Carmen. Her courage, generosity, and joy of life are now intertwined with this special place and the people who live and visit here. We are all changed for the better for having met her.

Thank you, darling girl, for everything. We love you.

Papa T and Cheri

xoxoxoxoxoxoxox